Fines and Tariffs

Any day now I expect to receive a personal note from Giorgia Meloni, Italy’s Prime Minister. Why would she write to me, an American, living here on a one year “retirement” visa? It’s because I am sure she is very appreciative of my generous financial support of this country.

Somehow, despite the posted advance warnings ahead of each radar machine, I have managed to rack up about E200 in fines. I am mystified. I scrupulously adhere to speed limits (when they’re posted) and endure the impatience of drivers in cars, trucks and buses who ride my bumper waiting for a chance to whiz by in disgust as soon as they can. Do they get tickets, too?

It’s not the speeding tickets as much as the tariffs for illegally entering a ZTL Zone which are making me consider a part time job. These are restricted access zones, usually in historic city centers, which prohibit non resident drivers. I know what the zone is and how to read the signs. The problem has been when I am on a street and a ZTL is ahead and there’s no where else to go except straight. What are you supposed to do? Back up?

The tickets come to Vanni (whose real name we recently learned is Nunzio) to whom the car is registered. I know now when Vanni pops up in my email it will be a message in Italian from his wife Manuela with a copy of the citation attached. My friend Pam, who also rented her car from Vanni, assures me she collected her share of tickets in the beginning of her time here. She empathizes with my embarrasment when I need to stop by to pay yet another fine. Now when I approach Manuela and Vanni in the office at his garage I cover my face with my hands and they start laughing. I apologize, they apologize and I say, “l’ultimo!” - the last! and they laugh some more.

I‘m sure I will eventually get the hang of this. Meanwhile, I expect a letter from Giorgia any day!

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Art in the Garden

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Eating Our Way Through Panzano