Friday Night Music…Part 2
Follow me up a very steep, winding, one lane road that switchbacks into the hills above Greve. Now, you must know that steep, winding, mostly unpaved, one lane roads (that are nonetheless two way) would describe many of the roads into the Chianti foothills. As you bump along, (hoping no one is coming the other way!) a panorama of vineyards and olive groves, that is constant yet ever changing, unfurls below. The size and shape of the vineyards- rectangles or triangles or something else without a name- varies as does the contour of each grove. Irregular patches of deep green forest punctuate the scene. Clouds scurry across the sky and cast ever changing shadows over the landscape.
As you climb, off to your left, across the valley you catch a glimpse of the tiny, ancient fortified village of Montefioralle. It looks like a fairytale town tucked into the hills. The drive will beguile you. What can be better than this?
Montefioralle, tucked into the hills above Greve
Just wait! Because the destination that awaits you is even more enchanting! As you turn your eyes from the view of Montefioralle on your left, a high stone wall rises on your right blocking the view behind it. You creep along, hugging the wall. A few yards up, there’s a break in the wall and an open door beckons. But there’s nowhere safe to stop for a peek inside, so, on you go.
Doorway into La Macina
You follow one more right hand bend in the road to the entrance. You’ve arrived! A stone building that looks older than time sits before you as you pull into the small dirt lot right behind the sign that announces you are at La Macina di San Cresci.
La Macina, which gives its name to this place is a massive millstone once used for grinding olives for their oil. Today it sits in a studio, the hub of the complex comprised of a web of centries old, vaulted stone rooms with uneven dirt and stone floors and scattered remnants of another way of life juxtaposed with the works of the modern day artists in residence there.
La Macina is the vision of Duccio Trasssinelli and Demetria (Mimma) Verduci who since 2001 wanted it to be “an inspiring place for creative minds”. Artisits come from Europe, the US and Canada for residencies of one week to months to be inspired within a warm community as they pursue their passion as visual artists, painters, sculptors, writers, poets, photographers, and musicians.
At the conclusion of each artist’s residency, Mimma and Duccio host a Friday Night Open Studio for the artist to share their work. Each Open Studio moves from the artist’s presentation into a casual Apertivo. Drinks and snacks contributed by guests are added to those of the hosts. It’s always a delectable array of local meats, cheeses, breads, pizze, salads and sweets with bottles of local wines scattered among the platters. Artists and guests mingle either inside around a communal table or, weather permitting, outside in the garden. It is hard to put into words the magic of these events. You are in a magnificant setting, conversing with people, both artists and guests, who share the joy of creative expression.
And now to the concert… My first introduction to La Macina was thanks to Lorella, my Italian tutor (of course). The featured artisit was Bill Coon, a renowned Canadian jazz guitarist and composer. For 2 hours on a recent Friday night, Bill entralled the 2 dozen or so guests with a range of his works, including new compositions, the fruits of his residency. A drummer in the audience joined him on a bongo for a few songs. Bill’s low key narrative colored in the history and inspiration for his work. After the Apertivo, Bill picked up his guitar again. Two few fellow musicians joined in and the music went on until 10 PM. It was the very best way to spend a Friday night in Chianti!
Welcome to Bill Coon’s Open Studio at La Macina! The portrait is of Mimma, by a resident artist. The drummer is Carlo Fagiani- Panzano’s famous shoemaker turned drummer….but that is a story for another day!