My First Visitor
Neal, the son of my dear friend and “soul sister” Simi, arrived June 9th. After more than two months here, it was a joy to welcome Neal as my first visitor.
When we had planned his visit, we agreed that time in Assisi, the home of St. Francis - an important connection for Simi and me, would be the highlight. And it was.
Assisi, in the province of Umbria, was a 3 plus hour drive on backroads that zigzagged through undulating hills and valleys. The autostrada would be quicker but I had asked Neal to take this more scenic route, slower paced route. His curated Spotify selections for an Italian drive played as we caught up while Neal perfected his manual transmission driving skils.
We were among the first to arrive for the afternoon opening of San Damiano, the church where St. Francis heard the call to “rebuild my house” which inspired his ministry. It’s also the monastery where St. Clare and her Sisters, the first Poor Clares, lived.
An aura of peace permeates those ancient walls. As you follow the path from the church, through the dining hall, climbing narrow stone steps into the cloisters you sense the centuries of prayers which have filled the sacred place.
In the hills above Assisi, Francis and his first Brothers retreated for prayer and solitude. Living their vow of poverty they slept in the rough stone caves they found there. We visited the Eremo della Canceri, the original chapel which was enlarged over the years and now incorporates the cave where St. Francis slept. We walked the gravel path that wound past the caves of Francis’ other early companions. Here too, the sense of peace was palpable.
After touring the Basilica, the church of St. Clare and checking out shops and a stop for gelato, we enjoyed a pasta dinner in the piazza.
By that evening, having climbed Assisi’s many hills and clicked off many more than “10,000" steps”, even my Fitbit was tired! Our overnight stay at Hotel Belvedere, right outside the walls of Assisi turned out to be a surprising and delightful respite, thanks to Enrico, the owner and host. Enrico and his sister Maria Magdelena fill this small hotel with a generous, warm hospitality. Thank you, Rick Steves- I wouldn’t have this place without you!
Enrico’s wife was from Red Bank and he knew New Jersey well. His face lit with joy as he told many stories and shared a few family photos. He even had a picture with The Boss! If you are ever in Assisi, you have to stay at the Hotel Belvedere and meet Enrico.
On the way back to Panzano, Neal and I spent a few hours in Siena and had a fabulous dinner at Grotta Santa Caterina da Bagoga (the restaurant of a former Palio jockey “Bagoga) that was recommended by my cousin David. (Thank you, David!). We sat in a small booth perched along the steep street, above the table below and below the table next up the street. We shared a “cheese cake” appetizer, a pasta, a risotto and a silky, lemony cake for dessert.
These few days with Neal visit were a special, meaningful start to my “tourist” season.
A note: Simi died in 2020 after which Neal’s life journey took a fascinating turn. You can Google Neal Bakshi.
Cave of San Rufino
Jasmine wreaths the best hotel in Assisi
Siena’s Campo (piazza)with the duomo in the background