Rainy Day in Panzano - Part 2

I loitered over my capucchino for longer than I planned, pondering what to do next. A steady rain had started again. When in doubt, a stop at a Capana has become my go to! It is right next door to the Bar so saved me heading back into the rain. Paula, the manager and fellow American, always has a friendly, “Hi, Jill” whenever I wander in. Today, a stream of locals I am beginning to recognize ducked in out of the rain. First was the woman who runs the flower shop, followed by a very short, much older woman I think is her mom. “Mama” always smiles at me and unleashes a torrent of Italain, while she nods and sprinkles in animated gestures. I smile and say “si, si.”

The shop is small, four tables and chairs fill most of the open space. Two tall, well worn tables flank the display case filled with cured meats, chunks of cheese and a few prepared dishes. To the right of the display case is a wall of shelves with today’s assorted breads. The shelves are always empty by late afternoon. Customers squueze around the tables in the limited standing room.

As each new customer arrives I step aside and tell Paula I will wait. I enjoy the chance to listen to the conversation and consider what else to add to my purchase.

Today, with five customers crowded into the tiny shop, Paula heads to the rear, behind the display case and shouts out, “Caffe?” As everyone’s head nods she comes around the display case and hands each of us a shot of espresso in a tiny glass barely larger than a thimble. “Zucchero?” she asks as she places a sugar bowl on one of the tall tables. I down my espresso in three sips and smile. On this rainy day in Panzano, I shared in this communal ritual, grateful for the warmth and hospitality of my new home.