I scream, you scream, we all scream - for ICE CREAM!
Mention Italy to most people and before you know it you’ll be in a discussion of the best pasta or pizza they ever had in Roma or Napoli or some trattoria they happened upon on a ride through the countryside. But no matter what other culinary memory they share, you’re sure to end up on gelato!
Gelato is the Italian cousin to ice cream. If you’ve never had a gelato, better put that on your bucket list! It’s creamy and cold and the most refreshing treat on a sweltering day. Gelato is for anytime, anywhere, though Italians tend to eat it as a late afternoon or early evening treat.
The only rule I’ve ever heard about gelato was from Petula, our young tour guide in Roma over twenty years ago, who casually informed us, “Oh, yes, Italians eat gelato at least once a day!”
I only half jokingly informed my friends Sharon and Bruce, that I’d spend this year discovering the best gelato! Bruce, especially, is anxious to hear about my progres on that quest. So, three months in, I thought it was time for an update.
But first, what is the attraction about gelato? And everyone asks , “So what’s the difference between gelato and ice cream, anyway?”
Here are the quick gelato facts:
*Gelato has a lower milk fat content (just 4-9%) than ice cream (10-25%). (Doesn’t that make it healthier, too?? YES!! ) A serving is about half the calories of the same portion of ice cream.
*It has more milk and a lower proportion of cream and eggs
*It’s churned at a much slower rate so it incorporates less air resulting in a softer and denser texture than ice cream- that’s why the portions are usually smaller. Note- stay away from the puffy displays of brightly colored gelato heaps in touristy shops. The best gelato is flat and authentic flavors lend more subdued colors to the final product.
*Gelato is served at a slighter warmer temperature than ice cream, closer to the temperature of the human palate, so the flavors unfold more smoothly and satisfyingly in your mouth.
On my “taste test” adventure, I have sampled gelato from both bars in the village - almost every small town Italian bar (read coffee shop) also has a windowful of gelato flavors to entice you. My favorites here are the Baci (chocloate with hazelnut), stracciatella ( chocolate chip) and good old fashioned chocolate!
Dorn and I had a gelato for lunch in Certaldo - okay but unremarkable and a second gelato that same day (to make up for a few gelato-less days :) ) in San Gimignano! When we headed into the main square there we had a dilemna. Two very long lines almost converged in the middle of the square. One funneled into the door under a sign that read “The Best Gelato in the World!” while the other line led into the shop advertising itself as “The World’s Most Famous Gelato!”
We opted for the most famous “Gelateria Dondoli”and were glad we did. We later read the other was “an imposter!” probably labeled that by Donoli! For her two scoops Dorn created a Mounds candy bar in a cup - crunchy coconut and rich chocolate.
I was intrigued by their artisanal flavors, specially created by the shop owner. I mixed Rosemary baby, a rosemary infused raspberry, with Dolcemaro ( a concoction of vanilla, orange chocolate sauce, espresso sauce, hazelnuts and pralines). Each flavor was sublime!
Two gelaterias in Florence are tied right now with Dondoli for my favorite. I’ve mentioned La Caraia before. It’s at the Oltrarno side of the Ponte alla Carraia and almost always has a line waiting to get in. The other is Badiani, on the 2nd floor of the Mercado Centrale. Can’t you almost taste the slightly bitter but rich denseness of this fondonte? I’ve yet to try gelatos from Firenze’s supposedly most famous places- Gelateria dei Neri and Perche’ no! But there is still plenty of time!
Badiani - a Firenze favoo